Factory Price For Brass Copper Set Screw Cup Point Grub Screws to Accra Factories

Factory Price For Brass Copper Set Screw Cup Point Grub Screws to Accra Factories

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Brass Copper Set Screw Grub Screws Metric Size: M1.4 – M52, Inch Size: 0# – 2″ Hexagon Socket(Allen), Torx Star, Square, Slotted Drive Types Flat Point, Cup Point, Cone Point, Dog Point Other Drive and Point Type are also available acc. to customer requirement Various Surface Finishes Various Material Grades are available Please feel free to contact us for more details


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Factory Price For Brass Copper Set Screw Cup Point Grub Screws to Accra Factories Detail:

Brass Copper Set Screw Grub Screws

Metric Size: M1.4 – M52, Inch Size: 0# – 2″

Hexagon Socket(Allen), Torx Star, Square, Slotted Drive Types

Flat Point, Cup Point, Cone Point, Dog Point

Other Drive and Point Type are also available acc. to customer requirement

Various Surface Finishes

Various Material Grades are available

Please feel free to contact us for more details


Product detail pictures:

Factory Price For Brass Copper Set Screw Cup Point Grub Screws to Accra Factories detail pictures

Factory Price For Brass Copper Set Screw Cup Point Grub Screws to Accra Factories detail pictures

Factory Price For Brass Copper Set Screw Cup Point Grub Screws to Accra Factories detail pictures


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    Front Suspension

    The front suspension on these early models had no major problems or design flaws; however, 2000-2001 models were recalled for a problem with the ball joint stud pinch bolt. Also, Ford issued two TSBs on inspecting the front suspension and re-torquing the components. It was reported that the bushings in the control arms started to degrade to the point where they caused alignment and noise problems.

    It is important to check the SAI and other diagnostic angles because the steering arm on the knuckle can bend, causing shuddering and excessive tire squeal at parking speeds.

    In 2000, the Ford Focus set the aftermarket buzzing with the lack of factory adjustment built-in to the front suspension. Some adjustment kits work better than others depending on the amount in increments of camber or caster required. If you are replacing the front struts in one of these vehicles, it might be the right time to recommend a set of upper strut mounts that can adjust camber and caster.

    But, also keep in mind that the front cradle can be shifted to alter and optimize camber and caster.

    2000 Ford Focus front suspension
    2000 Ford Focus front suspension
    Rear Suspension

    The rear independent multi-link suspension, marketed as Control Blade suspension, combines the packaging of a trailing arm with the geometry of a double wishbone suspension at considerably lower cost. Control Blade uses a wide-pressed steel trailing arm with hub carrier that takes the place of two longitudinal locating rods. The long rear lateral arm controls toe; a pair of shorter front lateral arms (vertically above each other) control the camber; and the Control Blade reacts to brake and traction loads.

    Ford advises that final torquing of the rear suspension components should be carried out with the suspension loaded. This eliminates an expensive cast knuckle while lowering production costs. But, it should be noted, one of the first recalls on these vehicles was for the bolts that secure the wheel bearing hub unit to the control arm.

    TSB 07-4-2: Pull Drift Corrected with Cradle Shift

    Models: 2000-2007 Ford Focus

    Some Focus vehicles may exhibit a light drift/pull concern due to front subframe misalignment. Previous vehicle repairs that required front subframe removal may require the subframe to be realigned to correct light vehicle drift/pull conditions. Aligning the front subframe to correct misalignment can optimize camber and caster alignment angles.

    TSB 03-13-5: Suspension Rear Inner Edge Wear

    Models: 2000-2004 Ford Focus

    Some vehicles may exhibit rear tire inner edge wear. If a vehicle exhibits rear inner edge tire wear, and the rear camber reading is beyond the negative end of the specification (max. -2.2 Wagon, -2.3 Sedan & ZX3/5), then install revised +1.0 degree rear upper control arms.

    Editor’s Note: Aftermarket adjustable upper control arms, cam bolts and shims will work just as well as the revised upper control arms.
    Tools / Materials needed (not all mentioned here, but I’ll mention them as I go) –
    •Car Jack
    •Jack Stands
    •Breaker Bar
    •¾ or 19mm socket (I used this to loosen the lug/wheel nuts)
    •Torque Wrench
    •15mm wrench
    •18mm and/or 11/16 socket.
    •I have a multi-piece Craftsman Tool Set
    •Press – to press out the old wheel bearings (I don’t have one, so I took my knuckles to a local shop)
    •Spring Compressor (You can barrow this from your local AutoZone)
    •Thread Lock
    Suspension Work To Be Done –

    Front –
    •Struts
    •Strut Tops
    •Control Arms
    •Control Arm Ball Joints
    •Bearings
    •Rotors
    •Brake Pads
    •Wheel Studs
    •Wheel Nuts
    •Misc Cleaning and Painting
    Rear –
    •Shocks
    •SVT Lower Control Arms
    •Rotors
    •Brake Pads
    •Wheel Studs
    •Wheels Nuts
    •Misc. Cleaning and Painting
    Total Time – Just around 5½ hours. It’s less that this. It takes too much time to prep, paint, and clean stuff up. And take pictars!

    Notes:
    1.I should mention that this is going to be done on my Focus wagon. All focus models (00-05) are just about the same in the front, so this should help with what ever focus, even the 06-09 models. I don’t think there’s much difference with the newer ones.
    2.As for the rear, the Focus wagon has a slightly diff set up. The shocks mount to the chassis at an angle, instead of straight up like on ZX3/4 and 5’s. The other difference is the springs; they’re longer on the wagon. Other than these 2 things, everything else is about the same. So, again, this should help basically any Focus owner.
    3.I have the SVT brake upgrade, with no ABS.
    4.You’ll need to get an alignment after this.
    5. I didn’t swap my front sway bar bushings beceause i didn’t find the replacements for it. If you have an Eibach front sway, you know it has a groove where the bushing settles. It’s a good idea to grease it, though.
    Here’s are some very useful diagrams I have found on the intra-webz. Very helpful stuff.

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