Factory For ASME B18.3 Socket Set Screws to Sacramento Manufacturers

What is CEMENT BOARD? What does CEMENT BOARD mean? CEMENT BOARD meaning – CEMENT BOARD definition – CEMENT BOARD explanation.

Source: Wikipedia.org article, adapted under https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/ license.

cement board is a combination of cement and reinforcing fibers formed into 4 foot by 8 foot sheets (or 3 foot by 5 foot sheets), 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick that are typically used as a tile backing board. Cement board can be nailed or screwed to wood or steel studs to create a substrate for vertical tile and attached horizontally to plywood for tile floors, kitchen counters and backsplashes. It can be used on the exterior of buildings as a base for exterior plaster (stucco) systems and sometimes as the finish system itself.

Cement board adds impact resistance and strength to the wall surface as compared to water resistant gypsum boards. Cement board is also fabricated in thin sheets with polymer modified cements to allow bending for curved surfaces.

Cement boards are mainly cement bonded particle boards and cement fibre. Cement bonded particle boards have treated wood flakes as reinforcement, whereas in cement fibre boards have cellulose fibre, which is a plant extract as reinforcement. Cement acts as binder in both the cases. The fire resistance properties of cement bonded blue particle boards and cement fibre boards are the same. In terms of load-bearing capacity, cement-bonded particle boards have higher capacity than cement fibre boards. Cement particle boards can be manufactured from 6 mm to 40 mm thickness making it ideally suitable for high load bearing applications. These boards are made of a homogeneous mixture and hence are formed as single layer for any thickness. Cement fibre boards are more used in decorative applications and can be manufactured from 3 mm to 20 mm thickness. Fibre boards are made in very thin layers, making it extremely difficult to manufacture high thickness boards. Many manufacturers use additives like mica, aluminium stearate and cenospheres in order to achieve certain board qualities. Typical cement fiber board is made of approximately 40-60% of cement, 20-30% of fillers, 8-10% of cellulose, 10-15% of mica. Other additives like above mentioned aluminium stearate and PVA are normally used in quantities less than 1%. Cenospheres are used only in low density boards with quantities between 10-15%. The actual recipe depends on available raw materials and other local factors.

As a tile backing board, cement board has better long-term performance than paper-faced gypsum core products because it will not mildew or physically break down in the continued presence of moisture or leaks. Cement board is not actually waterproof, but it is highly resistant to absorbing moisture and has excellent drying properties. In areas continually exposed to water spray (i.e. showers) a waterproofing barrier is usually recommended behind the boards or as a trowel-applied product to the face of the boards behind the finish system.

One major disadvantage of cement board is the weight per square foot. It is approximately twice that of gypsum board, making handling by one person difficult. Cutting of cement board must also be done with carbide-tipped tools and saw blades. Due to its hardness, pre-drilling of fasteners is often recommended. Finally, cement board is initially more expensive than water resistant gypsum board but may provide better long term value.

Cement board is hung with corrosion resistant screws or ring-shank nails. Cement board has very little movement under thermal stress, but the boards are usually installed with a slight gap at joints in shower pans, bathtubs, and each other. These joints are then filled with silicone sealant or the manufacturer’s taping compounds before applying a finish. The filled joints are taped like conventional gypsum board, but with fiberglass tapes that provide additional water resistance. Combined with a water impermeable finish, cement board is a stable, durable backing board.

Video Tutorial on how to replace the sunroof rails on a BMW E39. The sunroof rails do have plastic parts which can break over time due to a lack of lubrication, sunroof being forced open/closed, or just from the plastic fatiguing over time. I would recommend replacing both sunroof rails while you are doing this procedure. This can be a time consuming procedure and the old sunroof slider may break and put excessive strain on the new rail which could also cause it to fail. You can only buy a kit from the dealer which comes with all the new parts rather than just the individual part you want to replace. I did use OEM parts for this repair as well. An easy way to detect if the sunroof rail is broken, you should be able to tilt the sunroof by hand, but the sunroof will not tilt on it’s own by the sunroof motor. This particular tutorial was done on a 1997 BMW 540i with a glass style sunroof.

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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-standard/flat screwdriver
-T25 torx bit
-small phillips screwdriver
-degreaser
-lithium grease
-right control rail kit PN 54-12-8-202-296
-left control rail kit PN 54-12-8-202-295

Procedure:
-when doing this repair, make sure you don’t get any grease on your headliner
-start my pulling back the rubber accordion pieces on each side by simply pulling straight out
-tilt the sunroof up by hand and use a rolled up cloth to hold it into place
-remove the three T25 torx bolts on each side (total of six)
-lift sunroof glass out and place in a safe area (I used my trunk)
-next remove the wind louver at the front of the sunroof opening by popping out the two springs on the front side, then pulling the louver straight up, and sliding out the arms on each side
-remove the stoppers at the front of each sunroof rail which are held in with T25 torx bolts (one on each side)
-remove the sliders from the rails on both sides
-now in this particular tutorial, we won’t be replacing the rear sliders because that does involve removing the sunroof driver cables
-on the metal flat brackets at the rear, remove the T25 torx bit (one on each side), then slide the pin out
-slide the arm portion of the sliders from the rails out on each side
-clean sunroof rails out using brake cleaner or some other form of degreaser, then re-lubricate sunroof rails with lithium grease
-split down new rear sliders and reinstall on existing rear slider
-re-installation in reverse
-as for re-installing sunroof glass, remove the brackets from the front slider rails by removing the phillips screws (one on each side) and install on the sunroof glass itself
-place sunroof glass back into place, then push front sliders forwards
-align sunroof and tighten bolts
-pushing sunroof back into roof, then tight Phillips screws on front sliders
-recheck to make sure sunroof is aligned with roof properly
-reinstall rubber accordion pieces

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